«I am strongly in disagreement with the idea of returning to normal. After all that has happened, how can you ignore it and just go back to normal? " He says Miuccia Prada while the catwalks of Milan come alive in the deposits of the Prada Foundation and in Shanghai at the headquarters of the Zhongshan Road Foundation whereat the same time the fashion show of the Prada spring summer 2022 collection.
Yes, how do you go back to a normality that you couldn't like as it was full of unsolved problems, conflicts, misinterpreted relationships, mystifying powers? We cannot go back to that normality, we must build a new world in which fashion can be a landing point for concrete work rather than reflection. But if the role of social and cultural construction is not of fashion, it is that of mirror and narrator of what he sees in the moment in which it is born. What do you see the fashion that is born today? "We had thought of words like elegance, but it felt so old-fashioned to us»Insists Prada.
One can not help but appreciate the logical process with which Miuccia Prada makes her thinking proceed and if there had been no reasons to share it so far, today it would even become urgent to do so. Fashion cannot limit itself to embellishing everything, it cannot be the perfect curtain that hides the ugly it does not want to see. If it is not taken into consideration by those who work on change, there is a reason, and it is because it often continuously and constantly re-proposes the concepts of déjà vu: elegance, femininity, awareness. As if it were possible that they weren't there. Of course, they are the starting point, but today a fashion that continues to ignore it, which is limited to lengths, colors and processes to dress the sensual bodies of elegant and aware women who cares? A fashion that re-proposes models of femininity invented by male power, what sense does it have in the light of what is happening in the world and leaving aside the long period of the pandemic?
Seduction is overrated
The response of a collection obsessively projected to find the synthesis between the past and "a time that is no longer when it is formed" to present itself to current events is the work that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have done as creative co-directors of Prada. "The collection analyzes the meaning of the garments (considered typically feminine, ed) in the current context through ideas and references to the past and questions the meaning of seduction. Why are these ideas still important after hundreds of years? ' The easy answer would be to say why the power of male culture has never changed, but this can be given by speaking. As a fashion designer, the answers are more complicated. “Trains, corsets and evening dresses. These elements have always been considered beautiful, but an evening dress, however beautiful, at this moment seems out of reality. We want these dresses to be relevant to the 21st century and to women today»Adds Raf Simons. In short, you can not pretend nothing has happened, pretend that women are always the same, pretend that they are willing to drink the usual lies about beauty and seduction that are told to them by those who have an interest in keeping them out of important speeches. And in this moment the clothes in the collection take their shape, which is substance in a discourse that is organized to change things from the inside and in an influential way.